**This is the time of year I began this project. I am re-posting this information due to the amazing new interest in it. **
Things I think are important to have on hand :
A flat 'dolly' (2x4s with big casters on it) for moving it around if it's sizeable.
A sheet of plywood goes ontop of the 'dolly', and is covered with a thick piece of plastic. The plastic just protected the plywood for the few months of curing. The plastic sheet that I used was large enough to wrap upward to help cover the form as it cured.
A level spot in the shade to do this in & let it stay during its few months of SLOWLY curing. Don't move it around, as it can crack.
A tarp for covering it. This will slow down the evaporation a bit. I did mine in July & it was hot here. Every day (because I just couldn't leave it alone) I'ld spritz it with water. I did not use the hose. I used 'pump' sprayers.
Wheelbarrow for mixing & shovel + trowel (or old spatulas).
Heavy rubber goves are good to have, too. The thin surgical ones won't hold up. Use the gloves before ruining your hands. (You'll remember this if you have any cuts when you start spreading the mix around.)
** Frame for structure (VERY IMPORTANT): Mine was made out of wood, so that I could knock it off when it had set up. (I used a rattan frame from a papasan chair, which I had drug out of someones trash yrs ago. It was completely destroyed by time I was finished, but gave me cooler effects than I had ever imagined. It stayed on for maybe 5 days before I removed it.)
( I've recently seen articles suggesting the use of plastic tubs for forms, but I would not invest the time & energy into a movable shape vs concrete. If you are making small pieces, plastic may be suitable. Personally, I am of the mindset that "less is less.. . . . . more is more." )
I wrapped the interior of the wooden form in hardware cloth + chicken wire (cause I had it around) for stability (the hypertufa mix just filled in the gaps). It worked really well! (At this point, I allowed for several drain holes in the bottom that were later covered with hardware cloth. I used my drill to add more holes than I had initially put & that was a good plan to have before planting....)
If you wanted to wire tie together metal rods (ribar, electrical conduit or old copper tubing) for an internal, non-removable metal frame) you could surely figure that out. I suppose that over time the metal will change the composition somewhat of the mix. **
I mixed with water and a shovel portland cement, peat moss, + 2 additional things that I've not seen in ANY other recipes/formulas.
You know . . . it's the secret ingredients kept out of every good cook's recipe .
** Curing: It really will take time, if the piece is sizeable. Sorry that I can't give you a formula for the curing vs concrete volume. This is the most difficult part. Once the structure visually appeared to be dry, I lined it with 'landscape' fabric, because it is porous & due to the chemical leaching of the concrete mix. I also didnt want the soil to run thru the drainage holes or clog them up. It was a good decision.
The concrete can be somewhat textured, with a light hand, throughout the early curing stages. A drill / dremel with tools attached are also fun. (You can certainly press tiles / glass chards /leaves . . . into it while its wet.)
I waited 4 months before uncovering it,permanently, which made it around November.
DO NOT LET THIS FREEZE BEFORE CURING !
When I added the soil & plants, I worried all the first winter that it would freeze and crack. The second winter's freeze, I checked it often & it had done great. (Originally, I had wanted to sell it but didn't want to do that if it wouldn't hold up over time.)
Now, it is 3+ years old & is naturally developing a mossy patina . I love it tooo much to think of parting with it. **
It has been an outstanding surprise !
No comments:
Post a Comment