Notes On Trees . . . .

Healthy trees are a long-term investment with the biggest dividends, if we take the time to get our young tree off to the best start by planting and caring for it correctly. Proper site selection is very important! 

Tree roots need water, but they also need oxygen. It's important to plant your new tree at the correct depth. The root system of a tree that is planted too deeply will slowly suffocate. The best way to ensure this is to make sure you identify the root collar on your tree before you put it in the ground. The root collar is the junction of trunk flare and main order roots. Plant the collar right at the surface of the soil.

When planting a container-grown tree, slide the root ball out or cut away the container.  Spread the roots out before setting the root ball in the planting hole. With a B & B root ball trim away as much burlap as you can and remove any wire or twine.  If you notice any roots that are kinked or encircling the root ball, trim these away.

Be sure not to hold the tree by its trunk as you move it into the planting hole.  Do not to drop the ball into the hole, as this can break off roots. If the root ball is heavy, try using a tarp under the ball to drag the ball carefully into the hole.

Fill the hole about halfway with native soil, breaking up any large clumps with your shovel while taking care not to damage any tree roots. Then add 5-10 gallons of water to the hole and let it drain through, settling the soil. Add the remaining backfill, using the leftover soil to create a low berm around the edge of the planting hole to contain water. (I like to take the berm out to the drip line of the tree.) Then add another 5-10 gallons of water. Firm the soil in the hole with your hands, not your feet or you can compact the soil and restrict the growth of the roots.  Your tree will do best if you backfill the hole with native soil to refill the hole. Your tree needs to become accustomed to its new soil as soon as possible. Most trees with trunks smaller than two inches in diameter don't need staking unless their root ball is crumbling, they are planted on a slope, are sited in a very windy location, or have a badly bowed trunk. The natural movement of an un-staked tree helps it to develop a sturdier trunk and a more robust root system. If you do stake your tree, be sure to remove the stakes once the tree is established, usually by the second season in the ground.

Finally, spread mulch 2-3 inches deep over the root zone of the newly planted tree to help conserve soil moisture and keep weeds down. Don't “over mulch” near the trunk since it can lead to rot and disease. Leave 4-6 inches of bare soil between the trunk and the mulch.
March brings an important time for fertilizing flowering shrubs and building their soil. Begin by spreading a 1/2-inch-deep blanket of compost around each shrub. Cover the whole area from the main trunk out to the drip line. Work the compost into the soil with a rake or hand cultivator, then cover with new mulch.